THE BREAK-UP OF THE ICE

Two hours later all had returned to Fort Hope, and the next day the sun for

the first time shone upon that part of the coast which was formerly on the west

of the island. Kalumah, to whom this phenomenon was familiar, had been right,

and if the sun had not been the guilty party neither had the compass!

The position of Victoria Island with regard to the cardinal points was again

completely changed. Since it had broken loose from the mainland the island-and

not only the island, but the vast ice field in which it was enclosed-had turned

half round. This displacement proved that the ice-field was not connected with

the continent, and that the thaw would soon set in.

"Well, Lieutenant," said Mrs. Barnett, "this change of front is certainly in

our favour. Cape Bathurst and Fort Hope are now turned towards the north-east,

in other words towards the point nearest to the continent, and the ice-wall,

through which our boat could only have made its way by a difficult and dangerous

passage, is no longer between us and America. And so all is for the best, is it

not?" added Mrs. Barnett with a smile.

"Indeed it is," replied Hobson, who fully realised all that was involved in

this change of the position of Victoria Island.

No incident occurred between the 10th and 21st March, but there were

indications of the approaching change of season. The temperature varied from 43?

to 50? Fahrenheit, and it appeared likely that the breaking up of the ice would

commence suddenly. Fresh crevasses opened, and the unfrozen water flooded the

surface of the ice. As the whalers poetically express it, the "wounds of the

ice-field bled copiously," and the opening of these "wounds" was accompanied by

a sound like the roar of artillery. A warm rain fell for several hours, and

accelerated the dissolution of the solid coating of the ocean.

The birds, ptarmigans, puffins, ducks, &c., which had deserted the island

in the beginning of the winter, now returned in large numbers. Marbre and Sabine

killed a few of them, and on some were found the tickets tied round their necks

by the Lieutenant several months before. Flocks of white trumpeter swans also

reappeared, and filled the air with their loud clarion tones; whilst the

quadrupeds, rodents, and carnivora alike continued to frequent the vicinity of

the fort like tame domestic animals.

Whenever the state of the sky permitted, which was almost every day, Hobson

took the altitude of the sun. Sometimes Mrs Barnett, who had become quite expert

in handling the sextant, assisted him, or took the observation in his stead. It

was now most important to note the very slightest changes in the latitude and

longitude of the island. It was still doubtful to which current it would be

subject after the thaw, and the question whether it would be drifted north or

south was the chief subject of the discussions between the Lieutenant and Mrs

Barnett.

The brave lady had always given proof of an energy superior to that of most

of her sex, and now she was to be seen every day braving fatigue, and venturing

on to the half decomposed, or "pancake" ice, in all weathers, through snow or

rain, and on her return to the factory ready to cheer and help everybody, and to

superintend all that was going on. We must add that her efforts were ably

seconded by the faithful Madge.

Mrs Barnett had compelled herself to look the future firmly in the face, and

although she could not fail to fear for the safety of all, and sad presentiments

haunted her, she never allowed herself to betray any uneasiness. Her courage and

confidence never seemed to waver, she was as ever the kind encouraging friend of

each and all, and none could have dreamt of the conflict of spirit going on

beneath her quiet exterior demeanour. Lieutenant Hobson's admiration of her

character was unbounded, and he had also entire confidence in Kalumah, often

trusting to her natural instinct as implicitly as a hunter to that of his

dog.

The young Esquimaux was, in fact, very intelligent, and familiar from

babyhood with the phenomena of the Polar regions. On board a whaler she might

have advantageously replaced many an ice-master or pilot whose business it is to

guide a boat amongst the ice.

Every day Kalumah went to examine the state of the ice-field.

The nature of the noise produced by the breaking of the icebergs in the

distance was enough to tell her how far the decomposition had advanced. No foot

was surer than hers upon the ice, no one could spring more lightly forwards than

she when her instinct told her that the smooth surface was rotten underneath,

and she would scud across an ice-field riddled with fissures without a moment's

hesitation.

From the 20th to the 30th March, the thaw made rapid progress. Rain fell

abundantly and accelerated the dissolution of the ice. It was to be hoped that

the ice-field would soon open right across, and that in about fifteen days

Hobson would be able to steer his boat into the open sea. He was determined to

lose no time, as he did not know but that the Kamtchatka Current might sweep the

island to the north before it could come under the influence of the Behring

Current.

"But," Kalumah repeated again and again, "there is no fear of that, the

breaking up of the ice does not proceed upwards but downwards. The danger is

there!" she added, pointing to the south in the direction of the vast Pacific

Ocean.

The young girl's confidence on this point reassured Hobson, for he had no

reason now to dread the falling to pieces of the island in the warm waters of

the Pacific. He meant everybody to be on board the boat before that could

happen, and they would not have far to go to get to one or the other continent,

as the strait is in reality a kind of funnel through which the waters flow

between Cape East on the Asiatic side and Cape Prince of Wales on the

American.

This will explain the eager attention with which the slightest change in the

position of the island was noticed. The bearings were taken every day, and

everything was prepared for an approaching and perhaps sudden and hurried

embarkation.

Of course all the ordinary avocations of the factory were now discontinued.

There was no hunting or setting of traps. The magazines were already piled up

with furs, most of which would be lost. The hunters and trappers had literally

nothing to do; but Mac-Nab and his men, having finished their boat, employed

their leisure time in strengthening the principal house of the fort, which would

probably be subjected to considerable pressure from the accumulation of ice on

the coast during the further progress of the thaw, unless indeed Cape Bathurst

should prove a sufficient protection. Strong struts were fixed against the

outside walls, vertical props were placed inside the rooms to afford additional

support to the beams of the ceiling, and the roof was strengthened so that it

could bear a considerable weight. These various works were completed early in

April, and their utility, or rather their vital importance, was very soon

manifested.

Each day brought fresh symptoms of returning spring, which seemed likely to

set in early after this strangely mild Polar winter. A few tender shoots

appeared upon the trees, and the newly-thawed sap swelled the bark of beeches,

willows, and arbutus. Tiny mosses tinged with pale green the slopes under the

direct influence of the sunbeams; but they were not likely to spread much, as

the greedy rodents collected about the fort pounced upon and devoured them

almost before they were above the ground.

Great were the sufferings of Corporal Joliffe at this time. We know that he

had undertaken to protect the plot of ground cultivated by his wife. Under

ordinary circumstances he would merely have had to drive away feathered

pilferers, such as guillemots or puffins, from his sorrel and scurvy grass. A

scarecrow would have been enough to get rid of them, still more the Corporal in

person. But now all the rodents and ruminants of the Arctic fauna combined to

lay siege to his territory; reindeer, Polar hares, musk-rats, shrews, martens,

&c., braved all the threatening gestures of the Corporal, and the poor man

was in despair, for whilst he was defending one end of his field the enemy was

preying upon the other.

It would certainly have been wiser to let the poor creatures enjoy unmolested

the crops which could be of no use to the colonists, as the fort was to be so

soon abandoned, and Mrs Barnett tried to persuade the angry Corporal to do so,

when he came to her twenty times a day with the same wearisome tale, but he

would not listen to her:

"To lose the fruit of all our trouble!" he repeated; "to leave an

establishment which was prospering so well! To give up the plants Mrs Joliffe

and I sowed so carefully!... O madam, sometimes I feel disposed to let you all

go, and stay here with my wife! I am sure the Company would give up all claim on

the island to us"--

Mrs Barnett could not help laughing at this absurd speech, and sent the

Corporal to his little wife, who had long ago resigned herself to the loss of

her sorrel, scurvy grass, and other medicinal herbs.

We must here remark, that the health of all the colonists remained good, they

had at least escaped illness; the baby, too, was now quite well again, and

throve admirably in the mild weather of the early spring.

The thaw continued to proceed rapidly from the 2nd to the 5th April. The

weather was warm but cloudy, and rain fell frequently in large drops. The wind

blew from the south west, and was laden with the heated dust of the continent.

Unfortunately the sky was so hazy, that it was quite impossible to take

observations, neither sun, moon, nor stars could be seen through the heavy

mists, and this was the more provoking, as it was of the greatest importance to

note the slightest movements of the island.

It was on the night of the 7th April that the actual breaking up of the ice

commenced. In the morning the Lieutenant, Mrs Barnett, Kalumah, and Sergeant

Long, had climbed to the summit of Cape Bathurst, and saw that a great change

had taken place in the chain of icebergs. The huge barrier had parted nearly in

the middle, and now formed two separate masses, the larger of which seemed to be

moving northwards.

Was it the Kamtchatka Current which produced this motion? Would the floating

island take the same direction? The intense anxiety of the Lieutenant and his

companions can easily be imagined. Their fate might now be decided in a few

hours, and if they should be drifted some hundred miles to the north, it would

be very difficult to reach the continent in a vessel so small as theirs.

Unfortunately it was impossible to ascertain the nature or extent of the

displacement which was going on. One thing was, however, evident, the island was

not yet moving, at least not in the same direction as the ice-wall. It therefore

seemed probable that whilst part of the ice field was floating to the north,

that portion immediately surrounding the island still remained stationary.

This displacement of the icebergs did not in the least alter the opinion of

the young Esquimaux. Kalumah still maintained that the thaw would proceed from

north to south, and that the ice wall would shortly feel the influence of the

Behring Current. To make herself more easily understood, she traced the

direction of the current on the sand with a little piece of wood, and made signs

that in following it the island must approach the American continent. No

argument could shake her conviction on this point, and it was almost impossible

not to feel reassured when listening to the confident expressions of the

intelligent native girl.

The events of the 8th, 9th, and 10th April, seemed, however, to prove Kalumah

to be in the wrong. The northern portion of the chain of icebergs drifted

farther and farther north. The breaking up of the ice proceeded rapidly and with

a great noise, and the ice field opened all round the island with a deafening

crash. Out of doors it was impossible to hear one's self speak, a ceaseless roar

like that of artillery drowned every other sound.

About half a mile from the coast on that part of the island overlooked by

Cape Bathurst, the blocks of ice were already beginning to crowd together, and

to pile themselves upon each other. The ice-wall had broken up into numerous

separate icebergs, which were drifting towards the north. At least it seemed as

if they were moving in that direction. Hobson became more and more uneasy, and

nothing that Kalumah could say reassured him. He replied by counter-arguments,

which could not shake her faith in her own belief.

At last, on the morning of the 11th April, Hobson showed Kalumah the last

icebergs disappearing in the north, and again endeavoured to prove to her that

facts were against her.

"No, no!" replied Kalumah, with an air of greater conviction than ever, "no,

the icebergs are not going to the north, but our island is going to the

south!"

She might perhaps be right after all, and Hobson was much struck by this last

reply. It was really possible that the motion of the icebergs towards the north

was only apparent, and that Victoria Island, dragged along with the ice-field,

was drifting towards the strait. But it was impossible to ascertain whether this

were really the case, as neither the latitude nor longitude could be taken.

The situation was aggravated by a phenomenon peculiar to the Polar regions,

which rendered it still darker and more impossible to take observations of any

kind.

At the very time of the breaking up of the ice, the temperature fell several

degrees. A dense mist presently enveloped the Arctic latitudes, but not an

ordinary mist. The soil was covered with a white crust, totally distinct from

hoar-frost-it was, in fact, a watery vapour which congeals on its precipitation.

The minute particles of which this mist was composed formed a thick layer on

trees, shrubs, the walls of the fort, and any projecting surface which bristled

with pyramidal or prismatic crystals, the apexes of which pointed to the

wind.

Hobson at once understood the nature of this atmospheric phenomenon, which

whalers and explorers have often noticed in the spring in the Polar regions.

"It is not a mist or fog," he said to his companions, "it is a 'frost-rime',

a dense vapour which remains in a state of complete congelation."

But whether a fog or a frozen mist this phenomenon was none the less to be

regretted, for it rose a hundred feet at least above the level of the sea, and

it was so opaque that the colonists could not see each other when only two or

three paces apart.

Every one's disappointment was very great. Nature really seemed determined to

try them to the uttermost. When the break up of the ice had come at last, when

the wandering island was to leave the spot in which it had so long been

imprisoned, and its movements ought to be watched with the greatest care, this

fog prevented all observations.

This state of things continued for four days. The frost-rime did not

disappear until the 15th April, but on the morning of that date a strong wind

from the south rent it open and dispersed it.

The sun shone brightly once more, and Hobson eagerly seized his instruments.

He took the altitude, and found that the exact position of Victoria Island was

then: Latitude, 69? 57'; longitude, 179? 33'.

Kalumah was right, Victoria Island, in the grasp of the Behring Current, was

drifting towards the south.